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In Paris, returns, farewells, and new creative director debuts have brought big questions to the runway. Antonin Tron questioned the Balmain woman with a collection more restrained than the dramatic vision of Olivier Rousteing; meanwhile, Matières Fécales, by Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, returned to examine the true meaning of luxury with The One Percent, a collection worn by two symbolic personalities: Bryan Johnson, obsessed with beauty and longevity, and the iconic Michèle Lamy, who couldn’t care less about traditional beauty. Two different worlds, those of Balmain and Matières Fécales, that nonetheless raise the same question: what is luxury today, really? Obsession or freedom?
On other runways, there were also a few tears. At Pieter Mulier’s last show for Alaïa, before the creative director moves to Milan to lead the new Versace, the emotion shown by Raf Simons (the designer’s former mentor and boss) and Matthieu Blazy caught the attention of everyone present. Sitting front row and jumping to their feet to applaud Mulier at the end of the show, they charged the moment with a sense of emotion that has been sorely missing at a time when tension and stress seem to rule not only Fashion Week, but the whole world.
In short, if this week has left us with one lesson, it is that even luxury sometimes cries.
nss edicola turned pink for the launch of Emporio Armani’s “Power of You.” Here’s how it went.
In Italy, immigrant women are driving inclusive growth and reshaping the country’s economy.
Why did Martine Rose have to cancel the production of her latest collection?
What does spring smell like? Five perfumes for the new season.
Why shouldn’t you name a brand after yourself? The difference between creative ego and branding.
The nail art to try this month while waiting for spring.
Emporio Armani’s “Power of You” lands in nss edicola in Milan.
Tinder, Grindr, and priests on dating apps: how mandatory celibacy clashes with reality.
In Cortina, someone stole the precious curling stones before the start of the Paralympics. The Guardian reports.
The Financial Times asks what a £3,400 apron says about modern feminism.
Would you ever live in a micro-apartment? The investigation into small-scale living by Dazed.
Out of the 111 selected, this edition of the Venice Biennale will not host any Italian artist. It’s the first time it has happened, reports Il Post